Greg Long

During big days, it’s not uncommon that I will wait multiple hours for just one wave and I am often asked why. It is because I believe life is about quality, not quantity. Think of all the waves you’ve ridden in your lifetime. How many of those do can you really recall? Probably just your very best. For me, life is about having experiences and creating memories that stand the test of time. So whenever I paddle out during a big swell, it is with intention to find and ride a wave that I will truly remember. Puerto Escondido, 2012. 5 hours…1 wave…worth the wait.
Photo: @moralesedwin via Instagram

Julian Wilson

SO SIR ,
WOULD IT HELP IF I SHED A TEAR
I SWEARE IT,S THE FIRST TIME SINCE LAST YEAR
MY SPINE IS A TINGLE-MY THROAT IS ALL DRY
AS I STAND TO ATTENTION FOR ALL THOSE WHO DIED .

I WATCH THE FLAG DANCING HALF WAY DOWN THE POLE
THAT DAMN BUGLE PLAYER SENDS CHILLS TO MY SOUL
I FEEL THE PRIDE AND THE SORROW THERE,S NOTHING THE SAME
AS STANDING TO ATTENTION ON ANZAC DAY

WILL YOU TAKE A MESSAGE WHEN YOU DO FINALLY LEAVE
TO YOUR MATES THAT ARE LYING FROM TABRUK TO THE SOMME
THE LEGEND OF THEIR BRAVERY WILL ALWAYS LIVE ON .

I,VE WELCOMED OLYMPIANS BACK TO OUR SHORE
I,VE CHEERED BAGGY GREEN CAPS AND WATCHED WALLABIES SCORE
BUT WHEN I WATCH YOU “SIR” IN THAT PARADE
I KNOW THOSE ARE THE MEMORIES THAT WILL NEVER FADE .

SO “SIR”- ON BEHALF OF THE YOUNG AND THE FREE
WILL YOU TAKE THIS MESSAGE WHEN FINALLY YOU LEAVE
IT,S THE LEAST WE CAN DO”SIR” TO REPAY THE DEBT
WE,LL ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU – “LEST WE FORGET “‘” via Instagram

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